I went for a long run through the village on Saturday evening.
On one of the dirt paths far from the tar road, two older men were walking together.
As I made to rush by them, muttering a hasty San'bonan', one men called to me..."Give me money!"
This is nothing new, or unexpected. The village is nestled on the edge of the Kosi Bay lake system - a vibrant, diverse ecosystem culminating in endless expanse of undeveloped shoreline. There are a lot of tourists who pass through.
I paused to say, "Sorry baba, I'm a volunteer at Sizaminqubeko. Anginawo imali, I'm broke."
What he did next has affected me so much that I haven't stopped thinking about it in two days.
He offered his hand to shake and lowered his head, and said "Ah wena utisha uRyan [you are Teacher Ryan], 'fundisa 'bantwana bami [you teach my children]. Ang'thath imali [I will not take your money]."
Bucket bathing, pit latrines, fighting prehistoric insects, no running water and complaining about the heat twelve times a day. Going through the motions, lacking creature comforts because it's what the locals do, it all makes for some decent sentimentality that maybe I'll look back on and laugh about.
But these alone do not a villager make.
I'm coming to think that over time you are offered relatively few honest glimpses of clarity - when you realize that the people who live around you are not pictures from an article on the evolving globalized economies of the third world in Time, and the reed roofs are not props for glossed up shots used in African game reserve advertisements selling Exoticism. They're neighbors, friends, family. And as often as the days come when you feel you are sharing the honest humanity of the world's hyper rich in distant and shimmering, high definition broadcast America, so also do the days come when the village quietly shares its own humanity with you.
Like that old man.
I think that, right there, was when I actually became part of this village.
-Ryan
Monday, January 31, 2011
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
01-05-2011
Happy (belated) New Year, Internet. Unyaka omusha omuhle (omu-belated).
It has been raining for almost thirteen hours, and I have watched almost ten episodes of 30 Rock in the last two days. I also invented a new exercise called the Tarzan. It’s a pushup where you see how many times you can beat your chest after pushing yourself off the floor. It’s still in testing.
Christmas in South Africa is…unique. One guy I met in Durban summed it up nicely: (and I quote, because I agree with him) “it’s just too damn hot in Africa for Christmas.” Totally agree, and I’m from South Florida. Christmas at 70 degrees, with A/C? Fine. Christmas at 104 degrees, and a tin roof? Not so much.
I think most people in South Africa realize this; I was invited to stay with an Afrikaner family near my site for Christmas. Instead of Bing Crosby and Jingle Bells, we listened to Neil Diamond and house music. Instead of It’s a Wonderful Life on Christmas Eve, we watched Get Him to the Greek. Not…quite the same. But the family was there, so really, it’s the thought that counts?
I had a great time. Mike, his wife Amanda and their two daughters live on the outskirts of town, in a neighboring village. Mike is fascinating, and probably certifiable. Born and raised in Morningside, one of the wealthier residential districts of Durban, he became disillusioned with the rat race of the business world he felt groomed for. He had some choice things to say about “the mortgages and the laptops”; it takes an articulate man to use certain words in the English language the way he did. In the end, he decided to quit his job, sell everything, and carve out his own piece of wild South Africa with what he could fit in his truck. He moved his family into the village, lived with them in a tent for two years as he built – with his own hands – his house overlooking the lakes. And now? He runs a generator repair business in town. He has become fluent in Zulu, and respected by his neighbors (we spent part of the day on Christmas delivering gifts to some of the households nearby). His house is completely off the grid; land purchased flat out from the induna, electricity from the generators he fixes, water from the bore hole he dug, no phone contracts, no cable, nothing. His greatest pride seems to be the fact that, if he wanted to close his shop tomorrow and leave forever, he could. All he needs room for is his family and his dogs.
After dinner on Christmas, we had a fairly in depth discussion on what his take, as a white South African, was on the HIV epidemic and how it’s being addressed by the new government of the country. At one point, he said “for an American, you and I have a lot in common.” I laughed it off. “Not so sure about that, Mike.” The man shoots crocodiles, for God’s sake. But it did make me think about packing up my own life into the Santa Fe in Gainesville, days before flying to Africa. I had donated about eighty percent of my stuff to either friends, Goodwill or the Solid Waste Authority (there’s a joke in there somewhere), and as I pulled onto 13th street from Bivens Cove for the last time, I realized that everything I now owned in this world was packed into my car…strange until I condensed it again, the night before Philly. Everything I needed or thought I might need now in a suitcase, a back pack, a laptop bag and a guitar case, leaving everything else behind. Maybe, at least partially in this way, we had sometihng in common.
Getting back on topic, Christmas was lekker. New Year’s will be another blog post, maybe. I hope that everyone had a wonderful holiday and New Year’s celebration. I say this a lot, but know that you are loved and missed.
Happy 2011.
-Ryan
Oh and, total side note while I’m typing about packing, imagine it’s ten o’clock at night, there is a pile of clothes and books around you, and you’re holding a pair of socks trying to picture what walking through a stereotyped African village is like to know if they’re durable for two years. Actually, don’t imagine it; try it. Skip the pile of clothes / books though.
It has been raining for almost thirteen hours, and I have watched almost ten episodes of 30 Rock in the last two days. I also invented a new exercise called the Tarzan. It’s a pushup where you see how many times you can beat your chest after pushing yourself off the floor. It’s still in testing.
Christmas in South Africa is…unique. One guy I met in Durban summed it up nicely: (and I quote, because I agree with him) “it’s just too damn hot in Africa for Christmas.” Totally agree, and I’m from South Florida. Christmas at 70 degrees, with A/C? Fine. Christmas at 104 degrees, and a tin roof? Not so much.
I think most people in South Africa realize this; I was invited to stay with an Afrikaner family near my site for Christmas. Instead of Bing Crosby and Jingle Bells, we listened to Neil Diamond and house music. Instead of It’s a Wonderful Life on Christmas Eve, we watched Get Him to the Greek. Not…quite the same. But the family was there, so really, it’s the thought that counts?
I had a great time. Mike, his wife Amanda and their two daughters live on the outskirts of town, in a neighboring village. Mike is fascinating, and probably certifiable. Born and raised in Morningside, one of the wealthier residential districts of Durban, he became disillusioned with the rat race of the business world he felt groomed for. He had some choice things to say about “the mortgages and the laptops”; it takes an articulate man to use certain words in the English language the way he did. In the end, he decided to quit his job, sell everything, and carve out his own piece of wild South Africa with what he could fit in his truck. He moved his family into the village, lived with them in a tent for two years as he built – with his own hands – his house overlooking the lakes. And now? He runs a generator repair business in town. He has become fluent in Zulu, and respected by his neighbors (we spent part of the day on Christmas delivering gifts to some of the households nearby). His house is completely off the grid; land purchased flat out from the induna, electricity from the generators he fixes, water from the bore hole he dug, no phone contracts, no cable, nothing. His greatest pride seems to be the fact that, if he wanted to close his shop tomorrow and leave forever, he could. All he needs room for is his family and his dogs.
After dinner on Christmas, we had a fairly in depth discussion on what his take, as a white South African, was on the HIV epidemic and how it’s being addressed by the new government of the country. At one point, he said “for an American, you and I have a lot in common.” I laughed it off. “Not so sure about that, Mike.” The man shoots crocodiles, for God’s sake. But it did make me think about packing up my own life into the Santa Fe in Gainesville, days before flying to Africa. I had donated about eighty percent of my stuff to either friends, Goodwill or the Solid Waste Authority (there’s a joke in there somewhere), and as I pulled onto 13th street from Bivens Cove for the last time, I realized that everything I now owned in this world was packed into my car…strange until I condensed it again, the night before Philly. Everything I needed or thought I might need now in a suitcase, a back pack, a laptop bag and a guitar case, leaving everything else behind. Maybe, at least partially in this way, we had sometihng in common.
Getting back on topic, Christmas was lekker. New Year’s will be another blog post, maybe. I hope that everyone had a wonderful holiday and New Year’s celebration. I say this a lot, but know that you are loved and missed.
Happy 2011.
-Ryan
Oh and, total side note while I’m typing about packing, imagine it’s ten o’clock at night, there is a pile of clothes and books around you, and you’re holding a pair of socks trying to picture what walking through a stereotyped African village is like to know if they’re durable for two years. Actually, don’t imagine it; try it. Skip the pile of clothes / books though.
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